Benagil sea cave is a watery pantheon with sunlight streaming in through a hole in its domed ceiling. The sandstone cliffs of the western Algarve are dotted with secret caves and coves reached by rock-hewn steps and tunnels. There are adventure activities and studios or apartments as well as camping. Where to stay Salema Eco Camp is a beautiful, green campsite within walking distance of the beach and in the naturist-friendly zone. While da Santa and Figueira beaches are quite wild, Praia da Salema nearby has a lifeguard in the summer, plus cafes and a restaurant. History lovers can also seek out Fortaleza de Almádena, a yellow stone ruin facing the sea three miles east of Salema, with Arabic arches and a 17th-century chapel. Look for tracks in the stone left by dinosaurs 125 million years ago. About 10 minutes away are Praia da Santa and Praia da Figueira, beneath the ruins of an old fort. Walk west from Salema, along remote cliff paths, to a series of tiny wild coves. ![]() The far west the Algarve is part of the Alentejo natural park and perfect for secret cove hunters. There’s a bio-pool in the garden and fresh cheeses, milk, local fruit, hams and bread are left on the step for breakfast. Where to stay Five minutes’ drive from Amália beach, Cerro da Fontinha in Brejão has accommodation in old-style Alentejo cottages. Pick up the path from Azenhas do Mar and hike 3km over the wild coastal landscape with views inland to the Monchique mountains. The beach lies on the Rota Vicentina coast path, a 400km waymarked footpath which follows ancient smugglers’ routes and fishermen’s paths. Café Central is a great restaurant in Brejão for charcoal-grilled fish and octopus salad. Jagged black cliffs bookend this picture-perfect beach, named after 1940s rags-to-riches figure Amália Rodrigues, an orange-seller turned fado singer, who learned to swim here. A freshwater cascade tumbles on to the sandy cove, providing a natural shower. From the Herdade Amália guesthouse, near Azenha do Mar village, follow a path through thicket and down rough-hewn steps to Praia da Amália. The wild Costa Vicentina in the far south-west is an area of rocky promontories, monasteries, Moorish ruins and stunning quiet beaches. One-week packages from €180pp, shorter stays also available, ALENTEJO 5. Map reference Where to stay Salty Way House is just 3km from Adraga, between the beach and the mountains with rambling gardens and bonfire nights where guests can trade stories of their surfing or climbing experiences (the house is a centre for both activities). From here, there’s a walking trail along the cliffs for 5km south to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost tip of mainland Europe. Behind it, there’s a little restaurant with great seafood. Though popular with surfers (check out Adraga Surf Camp), the beach itself isn’t busy. On hot summer days, the rocks provide welcome shade and there’s a small cave to explore at low tide. Shaped like an elephant’s trunk, it’s sandy, with rocks arching into the sea. The Sintra hills, half an hour or so north of Lisbon, hide ancient castles among forests before dropping down to dramatic cliffs with several coves, including Praia da Adraga. Praia da Adraga, Sintra-Cascais natural park Doubles from €60 B&B, quintadojuncal.pt 4. A beach van makes trips to and from the house. Alternatively the 19th-century retreat Quinta do Juncal, 10km inland, offers big comfy beds in antique-filled bedrooms with a pool and views out to sea. Where to stay For villas and apartments within walking distance of the beach see Baleal Surf Camp. There’s a jolly assortment of bars, cafes and restaurants selling fresh seafood all within meandering distance back towards Peniche. For more adventure head 2km north along the coast for limestone cliffs wrought with ravines and sea caverns. There’s good surfing, too, but with both north and south aspects swimmers can find calmer water. ![]() Sea-worn rocks provide seclusion and there are bathing lagoons at low tide and rockpools with plenty of glistening seaweed, tiny crabs and shells – perfect for mini explorers. Baleal beach is a magical spot an hour’s drive north of Lisbon, where a 4km sandy curve links the Peniche peninsula to the mainland.
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